Monday, June 16, 2008

Wat? Ethiopian food in Nashville?

This past weekend, I had the opportunity to venture south of downtown to the nether region that is "those few blocks between 100 Oaks Mall and Nolensville Rd". This road to perdition - Thompson Lane. Destination - GoJo Ethiopian Restaurant.

Having recently moved here from Washington DC, what I've been told is 2nd to LA of highest Ethiopian population, I am not unfamiliar with Ethiopian fare. However, this is Nashville... Tennessee... how good can it get? The answer in short is "good, real good."

Now I'm not saying that just any southern boy can walk into Gojo and expect to find anything even remotely familiar. The decor is different, the smells are different, and the food, awe the food... well, fortunate for us, it is different as well. The owner has lined the walls with colors of her country (green, yellow, and red) and an homage to who appeared to be Haile Selassie. The speakers ring with raggea-esk tunes. The faint smell of roasting coffee percolates the room. Nothing about this experience makes me feel as though I am in Nashville.

Upon being greeted and seated, I found my mouth watering at the slim chance this establishment had traditional beverages. "Beer? St. George, Dashen, anything?" I asked the waitress. "No alcohol at all" she replied. My hopes, and Pavlovian demeanor for that matter, were immediately crushed. She kindly pointed out the window and invited me to bring in anything I desired from Twin Kegs next door. A kind jester, but no consolation.

As I examined the menu, I found what I had expected... the veritably quintessential standards of Ethiopian cuisine: wat, tibs, and kitfo - all served atop and alongside what is this country's gift to the culinary world, injera. For those completely unfamiliar with this food, allow me to sum it up. Wat is simply a stew. It can be a stew of meat (chicken, beef, goat, etc.) or of veg (lentils, corn, potatoes, etc.). Tibs are simply the sautéed version of the same food. Think of it more as Ethiopian spices with French technique, only using ghee instead of butter. Kitfo, simply put, is tartare. That's right, raw! Finally, injera is the national sour dough bread that resembles an unflipped crepe. Injera is served with every meal, and is acknowledged not only for its flavor, but its utility. There are no forks at this table; injera alone is your vehicle of food transportation from plate-to-mouth. As such, it is customary (and advised) that you should wash your hands while your food is being prepared.

I ordered the kitfo. Unsurprisingly, even the waitress wanted to make sure I knew what I was getting myself into. "I've had it before", I insisted. She made a little friendly small talk, and quickly rushed my order to queue. I sat for only a short time, before being served by the cook/proprietor. As I started digging in, I could not help but be transported back to my first experience with this dish. This kitfo was spicy yet balanced, a great example of how Ethiopian curries are unique and wonderful in their own right. It was accompanied by two vegetable wats and some homemade, crumbled cheese; and I will say the cheese alone was worth the trip. It had the texture of feta, but this cow's milk cheese was unique in that collared greens had been cut into it. Mild. Complex. Wonderful.

Towards the end of my attempt at cleaning my plate, I inquired about their coffee. My waitress explained that they only do traditional coffee ceremonies for large parties, but she would be happy to prep an individual pot for me in the kitchen. I agreed and was elated. Assuming that I was anticipating the roasting process, she brought the beans out to my table as they were half roasted, giving me enough time to get in a couple deep lungfuls of the perfume that I can only describe as "burnt grass". Oh yeah, that good! After disappearing for only a few minutes, she came back with an offering, that for only $5, will make you never want to patronize Starbucks again. It was coffee as it was meant to be... as it was discovered.

Overall the experience was great. The food was wonderful and though having a rough exterior, the ambiance was quaint and strangely homey. The service was quick and kind. For all Nashvillians, both little and large, looking for "something different" in their dining regimen, I would implore you to venture out and try something new. Try Gojo.

Gojo Ethiopian Restaraunt
415 W Thompson Lane
Nashville, TN 37211

3 comments:

stan said...

nice! my dad told me about this place the last time we were in town. he gave it a hearty recommendation as well.

unfortunately, the ramshackle exterior turned my mom off to the joint--she wanted to wait in the car.

ck said...

good to see you guys up and running!

Cullin Spellings said...

ahh, finally, you've done something beneficial with your time as a stay at home employee.

good for you. stay cool, have a tubetacular summer.